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Casting beyond the feed or to the back edge of the feed area also works and this is something I regularly do

If you are concerned about it backing out, you can add a tiny drop of blue Loctite to the threads before installation

Sites like FishTrack drastically reduce the guesswork by providing the latest SST and chlorophyll charts, which can help you pinpoint sharp temperature and color breaks over structure

Good vid Tony now Im not going to say I totally disagree with some of the things you said just give my opinion on what works for me I like floor carbon leaders they seem to be tougher even better then the best mono and I never have tied a loop knot I use what is known as a speed clip its not a swivel but a very fast way to attach a lure instead of having to tie a special knot and the advantage to that is if you want or need to switch lures you can without the hassle of retiring but thats your option I just know what works for me now as far as removing the split ring I never thought about that but I guess i could and the leader size I usually pull out a length until both my arms are outstretched then cut it off that way I know I have plenty with only 2 feet it doesnt take long before you have to tie a new one on and that takes time remember when your fishing in tidal areas every min counts because there is always a window when the tide is best and yes removing the trebles and replacing them with inline singles sounds like a great idea the only problem being I have yet to find a store that carries them any suggestions

I like to use 20lb power pro braid with 1oz jigs or bucktail teaser high low rigs with a 1oz weight due to currents being stronger in some locations

For higher-order interactions, exhaustive filter methods have been developed (e.g., Multifactor Dimensionality Reduction (MDR) (Ritchie et al., 2001) or the Combinatorial Partitioning Method (CPM) (Nelson et al., 2001)) and shown to be able to detect SNP-SNP interactions across 3 orders

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